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July was likely the hottest month ever

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The hottest-month-ever title was previously held by July 2016. That month sizzled largely because it had one of the strongest occurences of the El Niño phenomenon, which raises global temperatures. 2019 didn’t have a strong El Niño, so it can’t use the same excuse. The month was plagued by heat waves, which are to be expected as global temperatures rise. We saw dramatic ice melt in Greenland, in the Arctic and on European glaciers. Plus, “unprecedented” wildfires raged in the Arctic.

Data from the last few days of the month hasn’t been factored in yet, but you get the idea of where this is going. “All of this means that we are on track for the period from 2015 to 2019 to be the five hottest years on record,” said UN Secretary-General António Guterres. “… Preventing irreversible climate disruption is the race of our lives, and for our lives. It is a race that we can and must win.”

At this point, breaking climate records seems to be a monthly occurrence. June was the hottest June ever recorded, and May was the fourth-hottest May ever recorded. 2019 could place in the top three hottest years. That’s not necessarily surprising, given that CO2 levels are the highest since humanity began.

According to a paper published in Nature last month, if we continue to operate existing power plants for their useful lives and build the already planned facilities, they’ll spew two-thirds of the carbon emissions necessary to boost temperatures by a full 2˚C. But the Trump administration hopes to keep coal-powered plants running longer to support local economies. And as temperatures rise so will our reliance on air conditioning, which will only increase our energy needs. We may be stuck in a vicious cycle.



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‘The Man Who Fell to Earth’ will get a TV remake on CBS All Access

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The series will be executive produced and written by Alex Kurtzman and Jenny Lumet, both veterans from Star Trek: Discovery. Kurtzman will direct, too. And they clearly see a way to modernize the concept — they liken the alien’s Prometheus-like gifting of technology to the work of real-world entrepreneurs like Steve Jobs and Elon Musk. However well the All Access show turns out, it could be particularly relevant to the modern era.

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FCC bans spoofed text messages and international robocalls

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As you may remember, Chairman Ajit Pai proposed the changes earlier this month. In a video announcing their approval, Pai said the FCC has received tens of thousands of complaints about spoofing in just the first six months of this year.

The FCC isn’t fighting this fight alone, though. Last week, the House passed a bipartisan bill that requires carriers to authenticate every call and to offer opt-out blocking for free. The Federal Trade Commission has stepped up its enforcement, bringing lawsuits against organizations responsible for more than a billion robocalls. The new FCC rules won’t stop spoofed texts and international robocalls altogether, but it could help abate them.

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FTC may be investigating Facebook’s deals for Instagram and WhatsApp

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Facebook confirmed in its latest earnings report an FTC investigation was underway, but didn’t go into much detail beyond it having to do with “the areas of social networking or social media services, digital advertising, and/or mobile or online applications.” The acquisition aspect is reportedly the focus of the investigation. Engadget has contacted Facebook for comment.

The company is said to have bought around 90 companies over the years. Along with the likes of Instagram and WhatsApp, they include Onavo, a data-saving service for phones that also tracked peoples’ app usage. Data from Onavo helped Facebook decide to buy WhatsApp and reportedly learn how Instagram Stories impacted Snapchat use. It shut down Onavo earlier this year.

The investigation follows another FTC probe of Facebook that led to a $5 billion fine against the company. That case was related to Facebook’s various privacy practices, particularly concerning the Cambridge Analytica scandal.

The Justice Department is also investigating if and how major tech companies have tried to stymie possible rivals. Regulators elsewhere are looking into competition concerns regarding Facebook too.

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The best ice cream maker

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Why you should trust us

The original version of this guide was written by Wirecutter staff writer Lesley Stockton, who has made a lot of ice cream and frozen yogurt over the course of her long culinary career. As a fresh-faced line cook in New York City, she hung out in the pastry kitchen as much as possible, learning about ice cream from the pastry cooks. She also had to spin a horseradish crème fraîche sorbet, served as a garnish on tuna tartare, every day before service.

Marguerite Preston, who conducted testing for the 2017 update, is a former professional baker with a passion for pastry in general and ice cream in particular. She has also worked on guides to cake pans, waffle makers, pie plates, and more for Wirecutter.

For this guide, we spoke with several ice cream experts, including Brian Smith, co-owner of Ample Hills Creamery; Billy Barlow, then director of culinary and production at Blue Marble Ice Cream; Lauren Brown, avid home ice cream maker and one half of Red & Brown; and Douglas Goff, a professor and food scientist at the University of Guelph with more than 30 years of experience in the field of ice cream. We read reviews from Cook’s Illustrated (subscription required) and Good Housekeeping. Finally, we polled Wirecutter readers to find out what they were looking to pay for an ice cream maker and what features would be most convenient for them.

Who should get this

An ice cream maker isn’t an essential kitchen tool, but if you love ice cream and like experimenting with unique flavor combinations, investing in one is worthwhile. Which type you should buy depends largely on how often you plan to use it and how much you want to spend. Generally, you’ll find three styles of ice cream makers:

  • Ice-and-salt: These old-fashioned makers tend to be the most affordable. You set a canister filled with ice cream base in a bucket of ice and salt and you churn the mixture, either by hand or with a motor clamped onto the machine’s top. If you want to make ice cream only a few times during the summer months, and you’re not looking for the smoothest texture possible, this kind of machine might be a good option. The setup can get pretty messy, which is why it’s best for people with outdoor space.
  • Prefrozen bowl: The most common maker of this type is the liquid-filled insert bowl, which you have to freeze for eight to 24 hours. You then put the bowl into a separate machine that churns the ice cream base. While this option is budget-friendly, the insert bowl takes up valuable space in your freezer. You also can’t make back-to-back batches because you need to prefreeze the bowl, which means you’ll be able to make only 1½ to 2 quarts of ice cream at a time.
  • Compressor: This type, a self-refrigerating ice cream maker, is the easiest to use. Just flip a switch, and you can turn out batch after batch of ice cream. These machines can be simple, with just a few buttons to operate, or loaded with automatic settings. Compressor models are the closest you can get to professionally spun ice cream at home. If you’re serious about your ice cream making game, this is the style to buy.

How we picked and tested

Ice cream maker

The compressor-machine contenders, clockwise from bottom left: Whynter ICM-15LS, Ariete Stainless Steel Ice Cream Maker, Whynter ICM-201SB, Lello 4080 Musso Lussino, Breville Smart Scoop. Photo: Michael Hession

The primary task of an ice cream maker is to produce creamy ice cream with few ice crystals. The faster the mixture freezes, the less time ice crystals have to form. Although machines will do this in about 20 to 40 minutes, there’s no optimal time cycle—you just want the mixture to freeze as quickly as possible. That’s why compressor machines tend to make smoother textures: They churn and freeze the ice cream base faster than those that rely on frozen inserts or ice and salt.

A good compressor machine will freeze at around -32 degrees Fahrenheit and maintain that temperature until the end of the cycle. A machine that uses a frozen bowl will only get warmer as the mixture freezes (and if your freezer is at the end of a defrost cycle when you take the insert bowl out, you’ll end up with a milkshake rather than actual ice cream). You can improve results in any type of machine by making sure your ice cream base is as cold as possible (see our ice cream making tips for how to do this).

While the ice cream base freezes, the dasher—a paddle in the machine—stirs the mixture. Home machines generally have plastic dashers, while pro-level machines (and a few high-end home models) use metal versions. The rate at which the dasher turns, in part, determines overrun: the amount of air whipped into ice cream, measured as a percentage. The faster the dasher moves, the more overrun you have. (Think of it like a whisk whipping cream.) The fat and egg content in a recipe also affects overrun, which we’ll get into later.

In our original 2014 test, we tried nine ice cream makers of all types: specialty hand-cranked, electric high-capacity ice-and-salt, frozen insert, and compressor. The only kind we knew we didn’t want to try was the large-capacity hand-cranked ice-and-salt type. Those machines are too much of a pain to churn, since they require a strong arm to constantly crank for 20 to 30 minutes.

For our 2015 update, we brought in only self-refrigerating compressor ice cream makers. These models performed the best in our first test—producing the highest-quality ice cream—and in surveying our readers we found that most respondents were looking to buy a compressor machine. We kept our budget and KitchenAid attachment picks the same because no new models of those styles had come out over the past year. The 2015 contenders included the Breville Smart Scoop, Cuisinart ICE-100, Lello 4080 Musso Lussino, Sunpentown KI-15, and Whynter ICM-15LS.

Ice cream maker

We made both vanilla and chocolate ice cream in each machine. Photo: Michael Hession

For our 2017 update, we again tested only compressor machines. We pitted two new models—the Whynter ICM-201SB and the Ariete Stainless Steel Ice Cream Maker—against the Whynter ICM-15LS, the Breville Smart Scoop, and the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino, our 2015 picks. Our budget and KitchenAid attachment picks again remain the same, because we’ve still seen no new models worth testing in those styles.

Ice cream maker

We churned 10 batches of ice cream for the 2017 update. Photo: Michael Hession

We decided to leave out gelato makers, since gelato is a different animal. It differs from ice cream in that it is mostly milk and sugar with little cream and little to no egg yolks, sometimes using cornstarch to thicken instead. You need to churn gelato slower and at a higher temperature to maintain that “stretchy” quality, which is why ideally you should use a gelato-specific machine for the task. The result is a product with little to no overrun that resembles a custard more than ice cream. Don’t get us wrong—gelato is delicious, and we love it. But it’s just not the same.

Ice cream maker

Setting up the Ariete (left) and the Whynter ICM-15LS. Photo: Michael Hession

In 2014 we tested the machines using a relatively low-fat recipe from Ample Hills Creamery in Brooklyn, and we tasted the results for texture and flavor with friend Sara Bonisteel, staff editor for the food section of The New York Times (which is now the parent company of Wirecutter). For our 2015 and 2017 updates, we used a higher-fat vanilla ice cream base that contained more cream and egg yolks than the Ample Hills recipe, which had more milk than cream.

Ice cream maker

The Whynter ICM-201SB 2.1-quart machine had plenty of room for mix-ins. Photo: Michael Hession

Higher-fat ice cream bases are more forgiving, because they contain a lower percentage of water to crystallize and ruin the creamy texture. If a machine in our tests made icy ice cream from this luxurious base, we figured it wouldn’t be worth buying.

Ice cream maker

Taste-testing the results. Photo: Michael Hession

In 2015, we also made a simple lemon sorbet without added glucose or corn syrup to smooth out the texture. We thought an unforgiving sorbet recipe that didn’t have any aid from fruit fiber or special sugars would show us the differences between these machines. But we were wrong—all the ice cream makers produced the same sorbet, so we did not repeat this test for our 2017 update. Finally, we made chocolate ice cream in each machine, and in 2017 we also used that round to test how each machine handled mix-ins added toward the end of churning. (If you’re curious, we used recipes from David Lebovitz, author of The Perfect Scoop.)

In 2015, instead of the informal tasting we held for the original guide, we held a blind taste test with six tasters. For the 2017 update, we returned to an informal tasting, using our former top picks as a benchmark of quality. From our years of testing, we’ve learned that with ice cream makers, you truly do get what you pay for: The prices of the machines we tested directly reflected the resulting quality of the ice cream.

Our pick: Whynter ICM-15LS

Ice cream maker

The Whynter ICM-15LS. Photo: Michael Hession

We like the Whynter ICM-15LS because it made smoother ice cream in a shorter amount of time than most of the other models. Although it didn’t create the absolute smoothest texture in our tests, it does hit the sweet spot of great results at a reasonable price. It’s also one of the quieter machines we tested, and one of the simplest models to use, scoop from, and clean. The simple, compact design makes it easy to store, as well. And because this Whynter model is a compressor machine, no prefreezing of any kind is required.

In all rounds of testing, the ICM-15LS made some of the best ice cream, producing a pronounced creaminess with very few ice crystals. With an overrun of 53 percent, the mixture was quite airy but still very rich. It wasn’t as smooth as what we got from the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino, but this machine also costs roughly 60 percent less than that model. As for freezing time, the ICM-15LS churned out creamy ice cream in 33 minutes, falling into second place after the Musso Lussino. Our runner-up, the Breville Smart Scoop, made ice cream in 35 minutes, and the Cuisinart ICE-100 posted the longest freeze time at 42 minutes.

In 2015 we learned that the cost of the compressor machines was directly proportionate to the quality of the ice cream they produced. The cheapest machine, the Sunpentown KI-15, literally stopped working halfway through the cycle and didn’t completely freeze the ice cream. Part of the mixture was still liquid, which resulted in uneven, icy ice cream. The Cuisinart ICE-100 was slightly better, but also produced an icy texture. For just a bit more money, the Whynter ICM-15LS made a far creamier ice cream. Both the Breville Smart Scoop and the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino made better ice cream, but they’re significantly more expensive. The Whynter ICM-15LS hits the right balance of making really good ice cream at a decent price.

One of the great things about the Whynter ICM-15LS is the lack of noise. It was one of the quietest machines we tested, in stark contrast to our previous runner-up, the Cuisinart ICE-100, which was high-pitched and loud.

The machine itself is pretty compact: Measuring 8½ by 15 by 9¼ inches (height by length by width), it’s the smallest of our recommendations. That small size makes the ICM-15LS easier to stash under a workbench or in a cabinet while not in use. Compare that with the Breville Smart Scoop, which measures slightly larger at 9½ by 16½ by 11½ inches, and the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino at 10½ by 17½ by 12 inches. At 32 pounds, it’s pretty heavy, but it’s easier to pick up and move than our upgrade pick, which weighs 40 pounds. Nevertheless, it’s better stored in a low cabinet than on a high shelf.

Ice cream maker

It’s easiest to take the lid off to add mix-ins. Photo: Michael Hession

The ICM-15LS is simple to use. The 1½-quart removable bowl is easy to lift out, thanks to a built-in handle, so you can scrape out all the ice cream with ease. The Musso Lussino, on the other hand, doesn’t have a removable bowl, so scooping out the finished ice cream and cleaning the machine both get pretty messy. In our tests, setting up the Whynter machine was effortless and took less than three minutes. The Breville was more difficult to navigate; we had to give the manual a once-over and figure out the many buttons and functions before we could start churning.

This machine is also very convenient. It’s a compressor model, so it doesn’t require ice and nothing needs to be frozen in advance; just pour in your chilled base and turn it on. It isn’t any different from the other compressor machines we tested, but it does stand leagues ahead of the insert and ice-and-salt models we tried.

Fine Cooking likes the Whynter ICM-15LS for its value. Our prior pick was the Whynter SNO (since discontinued), and this machine is basically the same guts with a smaller bowl.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

Our previous pick, the Whynter SNO, had a 2-quart capacity, while the Whynter ICM-15LS has only a 1½-quart capacity. The smaller capacity is not that big of a deal, however, because you can run batches back-to-back in this machine since prefreezing isn’t required.

The opening for adding mix-ins is almost comically tiny (2½ by 1 inches, versus the Breville’s 4¾-by-2-inch opening). But because you can remove the lid and the motor keeps turning, adding mix-ins is pretty easy without fussing with the opening in the lid.

Runner-up: Breville Smart Scoop

Ice cream maker

The Breville Smart Scoop. Photo: Michael Hession

For the price, we think the Whynter ICM-15LS is the best ice cream maker for most people, but the Breville Smart Scoop is a good—albeit substantially more expensive—option if the ICM-15LS sells out. In our tests the Breville model made slightly creamier ice cream than the Whynter, but we don’t think that makes it worth the price jump.

The Smart Scoop was our higher-priced option in our original guide, but in 2015 it failed to beat the much more consistent (and expensive) Lello 4080 Musso Lussino. What the Smart Scoop really has going for it are more automatic options—basically a lot of extra bells and whistles that most people probably don’t need. It has an auto mode that lets you choose from 12 hardness settings (which seems excessive), from soft sorbet to super-firm ice cream. A bell alerts you when the time is right to add mix-ins, and the lid’s wide-mouth opening makes that task easy. When the cycle is done, the Smart Scoop automatically stops turning the ice cream, and an alert bell or an ice cream truck song signals that the cycle is finished (you can turn this off).

A keep-cool function ensures that your ice cream stays frozen and churned for up to three hours. The machine also has a unique cool-down function that brings the temp on your base and the machine down to the perfect turning temperature before it starts to churn—no other ice cream maker in our test group has this feature. The large, bright LCD screen is easy to read, and the buttons are intuitive. And if you prefer, the Smart Scoop also has a manual function that gives you complete control (the Whynter ICM-15LS, in contrast, has no presets).

Ice cream maker

The Breville Smart Scoop is loaded with automatic settings, which makes it unique. Photo: Michael Hession

At 54 percent overrun, the Smart Scoop’s ice cream was so smooth and perfectly churned that we could have eaten it straight from the machine, no additional freezing necessary. You could do the same with any of these makers, but the Breville, and the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino for that matter, produce a firmer ice cream straight out of the machine. If you want a more scoopable ice cream, just transfer the mixture to a freezer-safe container and freeze it for a few hours.

At nearly $400 at the time of writing, the Smart Scoop is definitely a splurge. And there’s nothing you can do in this machine that you can’t do in the Whynter ICM-15LS. But the preset auto functions do take a lot of guesswork out of the timing, which is great for beginners and even kids.

Brian Smith at Ample Hills Creamery told us that he had one of these at his house and that his kids loved to use it, probably because of the cheery jingle that plays when the ice cream is finished churning. It also comes recommended by Serious Eats and Bon Appétit.

Upgrade pick: Lello 4080 Musso Lussino

Ice cream maker

The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino. Photo: Michael Hession

The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino is truly the most luxurious home ice cream maker we’ve ever used. In our blind tasting, the Musso Lussino took first or second place with every taster. For the price, however, it’s worth the investment only if you’re a serious connoisseur or you have cash to burn. Musso is an Italian company that sells home and commercial ice cream and gelato makers. The design of the Musso Lussino is sleek and simple with no bells and whistles, but we do have a few small gripes about its build.

The stationary bowl is not fun to clean, especially if the machine isn’t situated near a sink. You basically have to scrape out every last bit of ice cream and let the bowl warm up a bit, otherwise your cleaning water will freeze. Then you need to fill a mixing bowl with soapy or bleach water and wipe the machine out, making sure to rinse it completely. The task took more paper towels than we care to use, but we’re sure that we could streamline it with practice.

Ice cream maker

Checking the consistency of the ice cream in the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino. Photo: Michael Hession

The machine is also really big and heavy, measuring 10½ by 17½ by 12 inches (height by length by width) and weighing 40 pounds. This isn’t something you can stash on a shelf; it should be permanently parked on your countertop.

As with the Whynter ICM-15LS, using the Musso Lussino is impressively easy. The metal dasher—all the others in our test group are plastic—sits in the depressed stainless steel bowl. After you pour in the ice cream base, you just set the timer and press the two green buttons, one for freezing and the other for churning; you have no extra controls or settings as on our runner-up. We aren’t sure why the Musso Lussino has two separate buttons, but the cooling button could be helpful for keeping the ice cream cold once you turn off the churn button—just remove the dasher so that it doesn’t get frozen into the mixture. In our tests, this machine took 22 to 25 minutes, posting the quickest churning time of all the models we tested. What does that speed get you? Less ice-crystal formation and an intense creaminess that’s reminiscent of store-bought premium ice cream, thanks to a more powerful compressor that freezes the mixture faster. The difference is evident when you scoop out the finished product, as it’s stretchy, like gelato, and visually smoother. The Whynter ICM-15LS and Breville Smart Scoop turned vanilla ice cream in 33 and 35 minutes, respectively, and their product was more icy.

But, again, the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino is really expensive. For it to pay for itself, you’d need to make 1 quart of ice cream at least once a week for two and a half years. For the same price you could easily buy 275 pints of premium ice cream from a store at $5 per pint, if you factor in the cost of the Musso Lussino plus quality ingredients (and why use anything but in such a machine?). But if you like to make ice cream for family and friends on the regular, and you have the money, this just might be your ideal ice cream maker. Like the other machines we picked, this model comes with a one-year warranty, which is a bit short given the hefty price tag.

Budget pick: Nostalgia ICMP400

If you’re not ready to commit to an expensive compressor machine, the Nostalgia ICMP400 offers good results, although it requires more work and won’t produce the creamiest textures. Of the two models we tested that required ice and salt, the Nostalgia was the winner. This simple machine can make up to 4 quarts of ice cream, easily twice the capacity of the others.

The Nostalgia produced decent ice cream with a lower overrun of 31 percent, which is on the dense side. While the ice cream was a bit icy, it wasn’t the biggest offender in our testing lineup. Sara Bonisteel preferred this machine’s ice cream over that made in the equally affordable Hamilton Beach 68330R, noting that it had a “nice bite” and “pretty nice texture” with a “hint of ice crystal.” The flavor of the cream really came out in the finish. (We didn’t test this model again with the higher-fat recipe. It’s very possible that with a different recipe, this machine would yield an ice cream with higher overrun.)

Ice cream maker

The Nostalgia requires plenty of ice and salt. Photo: Michael Hession

The construction is simple, with a canister, a cover, a dasher, a bucket, and a motor that fits over the top. You just layer ice and salt in the bucket around the canister and plug in the motor. (We used kosher salt because we couldn’t find ice cream rock salt, and it worked just fine.) The bucket has a big, comfortable handle, and the motor runs at a low hum. In our tests the ice cream took about 30 minutes to churn, but the bucket was only a quarter full; at full capacity, the process would’ve taken longer. Since it was a cool day, we didn’t need to add more ice.

Keep in mind that this machine isn’t designed for you to add mix-ins while it’s running. You have to remove the motor and lid to add anything to the canister. Even then, you run the risk of accidentally getting salty ice in your ice cream. Best to stir in any additional nuts, cookies, or candy by hand after it’s done churning.

For KitchenAid stand-mixer owners: KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker KICA0WH

Ice cream maker

Photo: Michael Hession

While we were not impressed with other frozen inserts, we found that the KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker KICA0WH attachment was the only frozen-bowl model that worked well consistently. It’s a space-saving, affordable alternative if you have a KitchenAid stand mixer from 1990 or later.

The KitchenAid KICA0WH made perfect, fluffy ice cream every time. And we do mean fluffy, with the highest overrun (68 percent) in our tests (using the lower-fat recipe). The lowest speed on a KitchenAid is still faster than the churn speed on all of the ice cream makers we tested, so the resulting ice cream was smooth and extremely airy, with few discernable ice crystals. If you like a denser ice cream, this is not the maker for you.

Because of the fluffier texture, the flavors also weren’t as pronounced, and we didn’t get an especially indulgent mouthfeel. Billy Barlow, then culinary and production director at Blue Marble Ice Cream, told us he used this attachment because he already owned a KitchenAid mixer and he had space constraints in his New York City home. He noted that while you do have control over the speed while using the KitchenAid attachment, if you run it too fast, the friction will prevent your ice cream from setting. We ran it on the lowest speed, and it worked really well.

This attachment comes highly recommended by Good Housekeeping. Cook’s Illustrated(subscription required) recommends it with reservations because of the high overrun.

Ice cream making tips

Ice cream maker

Yes, we tasted a lot of ice cream. Photo: Michael Hession

Even the best home ice cream machine will never make ice cream quite as smooth as the stuff you can buy in the store, which is churned more quickly at lower temperatures, preventing ice crystals from forming. But you can take some steps to greatly increase the quality of your homemade ice cream, mostly by making sure it stays as cold as possible through every part of the process. Here’s how to get the most out of any ice cream machine:

  • Before you spin your base, thoroughly chill it down in an ice bath, or even let it chill in the fridge overnight. The colder the base, the sooner it starts to freeze, and the smaller the ice crystals will be. There is no skipping this step, unless you have a Breville Smart Scoop, which can do it for you.
  • Once the ice cream is spun, it’s like soft serve—it’s completely edible but definitely not scoopable. This is the point where you “ripen” the ice cream, which means transferring it to a container to freeze for at least a few hours. Additional freezing is an important step, because it reduces the formation of ice crystals; the colder your freezer, the quicker your ice cream sets, and the smaller those ice cream crystals will be.
  • If you’re interested in adding mix-ins, do so before ripening the ice cream. The ice cream base expands as the dasher whips air into the mixture. In our testing, we found that once the quart of base increased in size, it had little room for much else, and we needed to add mix-ins slowly and periodically. Maybe that’s the reason the Ample Hills cookbook suggests adding all mix-ins by hand once you’ve transferred the ice cream to a storage container. Also, if you are adding mix-ins, chill them in the freezer so they don’t melt your freshly spun ice cream.
  • If you’re new to ice cream making and aren’t sure how long to churn, no worries with the Whynter ICM-15LS: That machine has an automatic shut-off function, so it won’t suffer damage if your mixture happens to freeze solid. Otherwise, remove the ice cream from the machine when it’s thick and about the consistency of soft serve.
  • Also make sure the outside of the bowl is dry before placing it in the machine. This is a tip that Breville’s instructions specifically call out so that the bowl doesn’t freeze into the machine, and it’s a good idea for all ice cream makers with removable bowls.

What is overrun?

The term overrun refers to the amount of air whipped into the ice cream. There’s no optimal overrun, as commercial ice cream overrun can range from the super-dense 24 percent (Häagen-Dazs) to the light and fluffy 94 percent (Breyers), according to Cook’s Illustrated(subscription required). Think of it as the difference between pudding and mousse—they’re both stirred custard desserts, and they’re both delicious.

The air whipped into ice cream actually plays a role in texture and flavor delivery. Billy Barlow of Blue Marble Ice Cream said, “Air is very important when you take into account texture, as well as whenever you incorporate air into a product; if you have mint or vanilla in your ice cream, something that’s aromatic, those air capsules actually hold the aroma of whatever it is you’re flavoring with.” Ice cream that has a higher fat content holds more air. Not only that, but those air capsules also deliver better mouthfeel and texture.

Ice cream maker

All but one of the machines we tested in 2015 created an overrun between 53 percent and 59 percent, which showed us that home compressor machines yielded a similar overrun.

Cheap ice cream makers cut corners with cheap ingredients and high overrun. In the commercial ice cream business, more air means higher profits for producers. Douglas Goff, a food scientist with extensive experience in ice cream, told us, “Manufacturers are caught in the middle of ingredient and fixed costs on the one hand (which keep going up) and retailing demands for price point on the other hand (can’t go up), so overrun is a way to try to straddle that line and keep up margins.”

He went on to explain how that affected the quality of the finished product: “Yes, it is one of the defining characteristics of quality—too low and it is very dense, heavy, and rich (Häagen Dazs as the quintessential example, that is their market niche), and too high and it is too marshmallowy/fluffy, the cheap supermarket no-name brands being a good example.”

If you’re a fan of both fluffy texture and high-quality ingredients, the best way to have the ice cream of your dreams is to make it yourself.

The competition

The Whynter ICM-201SB is a newer Whynter model than our current pick, and at 2.1 quarts it has a larger capacity (the Whynter ICM-15LS makes 1.5 quarts). But it didn’t make ice cream significantly better than our current pick, and at the time we tested it was more expensive as well. However, if you can find the 201SB for cheaper than our pick, we think you’ll be perfectly happy with it.

Ice cream maker

We didn’t like the hand-crank model we tested. Photo: Lesley Stockton

Our previous runner-up, the Cuisinart ICE-100, fell from grace after 2017’s testing round. Pitted against other compressor models, it couldn’t compete and came in dead last. It took the longest to churn ice cream, 42 minutes, and the result was the iciest in our testing group.

The Sunpentown KI-15 was an underperformer. It churned the vanilla ice cream base with ease, and our blind-tasters liked its results a lot. But that’s where the good news ends: It stopped churning the lemon sorbet and chocolate ice cream before the mixtures were completely set, producing an icy and uneven texture.

The Donvier 837409W was the only hand-cranked model we tried. The smaller capacity (1 quart) of the frozen bowl probably makes the work much more manageable, as it needs to be turned only four complete turns, every three to four minutes for 20 minutes. But we found that it made inconsistent batches; the first was great, but the second was very icy.

A smaller machine with an insert bowl that requires prefreezing, the Cuisinart ICE-21 generally made icy ice cream in our tests. The ICE-21 does have a large opening in the top for mix-ins, which is a real plus. The biggest disappointment of this model was that when we went to make the second batch the next day, it wouldn’t freeze at all. The mixture resembled a half-melted milkshake.

Our prior top pick, the Whynter SNO, has since been discontinued. In our tests it made delicious, smooth ice cream on a par with that of our newer pick, the Whynter ICM-15LS. The SNO is bigger, heavier, and a little louder than the ICM-15LS, but if you happen to find it on closeout somewhere, go ahead and pick it up. We still stand by this maker.

The Whynter ICM-200LS is a slightly higher-capacity, slightly more expensive version of our top pick. A sales representative told us that the machines had the same motor and compressor; the only difference was that the ICM-200LS made 2 quarts of ice cream as opposed to 1½ quarts. We didn’t think an extra pint of ice cream was worth paying about $40 more at the time, so we opted not to test.

The White Mountain Appalachian Series 6-quart Electric Ice Cream Maker uses ice and salt and has a motorized dasher. Although it offers an attractive wooden bucket and is made in the USA, it typically costs over $200. Since you can get an easier-to-use compressor machine for that price, we opted not to test.

The Cuisinart ICE-30BC Pure Indulgence is a frozen-insert machine. Cook’s Illustrated wasn’t entirely pleased with it, and one of the editors here at Wirecutter had an unfavorable experience while owning one.

This guide may have been updated by Wirecutter. To see the current recommendation, please go here.

When readers choose to buy Wirecutter’s independently chosen editorial picks, Wirecutter and Engadget may earn affiliate commissions.

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Facebook releases tools to flag harmful content on GitHub

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Currently, when Facebook finds offensive photos and videos, it removes them and its algorithms assign a hash, or a digital fingerprint. Its technology can then use those hashes to determine whether two files are the same or similar, even without the original image or video. So when multiple copies of, say, terrorist videos appear online, Facebook has a better chance of spotting them.

These algorithms, known as PDQ and TMK+PDQF, will now be available to Facebook’s industry partners, smaller developers and nonprofits. The first, PDQ is a photo-matching tool that was inspired by pHash but built from the ground up. The second, TMK+PDQF is the video-matching equivalent, and it was developed by Facebook’s AI Research team and the University of Modena and Reggio Emilia in Italy. For those who already use content matching technology, Facebook says PDQ and TMK+PDQF can offer another layer of defense and allow different hash-sharing systems to talk to each other.

Facebook announced the open-source tools as part of its Child Safety Hackathon, and it’s specifically hoping the technology might help safeguard children. It could be used in conjunction with Microsoft’s cloud-based PhotoDNA tool and Google’s Content Safety API — both of which were released with the goal of protecting kids. After the discovery of an alleged child pornography ring on YouTube earlier this year, tools like these may be more important than ever.

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Verizon temporarily drops the 5G fee on its most expensive data plans

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The most affordable plan, Start, will offer 5G access — previously only the higher-level plans came with 5G capability. The previous middle-tier plan, Beyond, will be broken into Play More and Do More. And the new Get More option will replace Above Unlimited.

The new mid-level plans are priced the same, and have unlimited hotspot data with 15GB at 4G LTE speeds. Play More offers 25GB of 4G LTE data before it can be slowed. It streams in 720p HD and comes with an Apple Music subscription. Do More offers 50GB of 4G LTE data before it slows, but it streams at 480p. And instead of Apple Music, you’ll get a 50 percent discount if you add a tablet or jetpack portable hotspot unlimited plan.

Finally, Get More delivers the most data — 75GB at 4G LTE speeds — before it’ll be slowed. It boasts up to 30 GB of 4G LTE hotspot data. You’ll get the full 720p HD streaming and both an Apple Music subscription and 50 percent off when you bundle it with a tablet or jetpack mobile hotspot plan.

While the company risks confusing users, the new offerings help pave the way for its 5G service. This week Verizon expanded the service to Atlanta, Detroit, Indianapolis and Washington DC. 5G is already available in Chicago, Minneapolis, Denver, Providence and St. Paul, and Verizon hopes to roll it out in 30 cities by the end of this year.

The new plans are available starting Monday, and existing users can keep their existing setup or make the switch. It’s unclear how long Verizon will waive the $10-per-month 5G fee. Of course, you’ll need to live in one of those select cities and have a 5G-compatible phone to take advantage of that offer.

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AI and automation are making office life easier

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That starts with recruitment and onboarding. “Having a face-to-face meeting with a human seems to be an incredibly powerful way to communicate,” Samer Al Moubayed, co-founder and CEO of Furhat Robotics, told Engadget. However, he points out that even the most experienced and well-trained recruiters occasionally succumb to subconscious biases while conducting interviews — be they based on age, gender, race or even just a candidate’s responses to pre-interview chit-chat.

And that’s where Furhat’s social robot comes in. The 16-inch tall, nearly 8-pound robot is designed to sit at eye level and provide a physical presence with which to interact, as opposed to an onscreen chatbot or virtual phone assistant. Its “face” is a swappable mask onto which a backlit, animated image of a person’s face is projected. A pair of 2.5-inch hi-fidelity stereo speakers provide the robot with a voice. The robot itself can be applied to a range of applications, but since October 2018, Furhat has teamed with Swedish recruitment firm TNG, leveraging its technology as a robotic recruiter called Tengai.

“A social robot is just another device, but what makes it unique is its ability to communicate in ways that are much more natural,” Al Moubayed said. “We think using a social robot to perform a job interview… can have a very interesting effect on the interview process or the candidate experience compared to a survey online, web test or even meeting a human.”

“It typically takes about seven seconds for someone to make a first impression and about five to 15 minutes for a recruiter to make a decision. We want to challenge that,” Elin Öberg Mårtenzon, chief innovation officer at TNG’s Stockholm office, told the BBC in March.

While a human interviewer might subtly change the ways they ask candidates questions — whether it’s their tone of voice, the ordering of their questions or minor shifts in their body language — Tengai asks every question the same way, in the same order, every time. Specifically, Tengai performs the initial candidate screenings, asking the same 28 standardized IQT questions of every candidate. Once the interview is complete, Tengai generates an anonymized transcript of the conversation and forwards it onto a committee of humans who review them and decide which candidates will move on.

Following months of testing and validation, Tengai began interviewing real candidates for TNG in May. An English-language version is slated for release at some point in 2020. Eventually, Furhat would like to develop Tengai sufficiently that the system can not only perform its rote interview tasks but also analyze the answers and make its own recommendations as to who to hire.

That capability is still a ways off but Furhat is already exploring ways for its robot to help people. In the last week of May, the robot (this time dubbed “SEMMI,” or Socio-Emphatic Man-Machine Interaction) occupied a kiosk in Tokyo Station as part of a JR East field test and served as a travel concierge, answering travellers’ questions in nine languages. Should this test be deemed a success, attendees of the 2020 Olympic Games might find a swarm of SEMMI’s manning subway stations throughout Tokyo. While Tengai is built to help with hiring people, Amelia the conversational AI from IPsoft is designed to eliminate positions formerly held by humans. That may sound harsh, but really, do your or anyone you know actually want to work in a call center?

Amelia was created by former NYU professor turned IPSoft founder Dr. Chetan Dube. But she’s no simple chatbot. This conversational AI is capable of understanding the emotional state of the person on the other end of the line and adjusting her responses and gestures accordingly. What’s more, should Amellia get a caller that she can’t handle personally, the system will transfer the call to a human operator. However, Amellia will stay on the line, listening to how the humans resolve the situation and applying that new knowledge to her repertoire — once she gets the OK from her human supervisor, of course.

The same holds true when complying with state and federal regulations. If Amelia isn’t licensed to perform a task in a specific state — i.e., handling a change of address request — she’ll automatically hand off the call to a licensed colleague to complete the process. This saves humans in the call center time and effort, since they only need to be involved once Amelia hits a snag.

Nearly two dozen companies across a variety of industries, from healthcare and insurance firms to telecoms and banks, currently employ Amelia. Allstate Insurance began using Amelia in 2017 to great effect. Average call times dropped by 24 seconds while customers reported having their issues solved on the first call rose from 67 percent to 75. Amelia is trained to answer more than four dozen industry-specific questions and walks callers through various common processes like changing or reinstating their coverage and obtaining proof-of-insurance.

Amelia currently serves around a quarter million Allstate customers a month. The company hopes to further expand the size and scope of her role moving forward, eventually developing her sufficiently to “interact directly with agents and customers to solve issues often too complex for a single human,” according to a March press release.

In March, IPsoft launched 1Bank, a conversational banking app powered by Amelia. It is designed to help customers find transactions simply by asking, proactively informing customers of incoming bills and warning them if they have insufficient funds, or setting up recurring bill payments

Amelia is a high-profile example of an underlying technology known as robotic process automation (RPA). This emerging field of automation is aimed squarely at reducing the amount of drudgery and mindless repetitive tasks human office workers have to do. That includes billing, accounting, customer service, data processing and inventory control.

“What we are trying to do is to take away the monotonous and repetitive — the grunt work — from people,” Automation Anywhere CTO, Prince Kohli, told Engadget. “It knows what you want to do, you can ask it to do [a specific task], or it will know that you need something before you ask for it.”

However, unlike Amelia, many RPA systems (colloquially known as bots) are quite dumb, little more than beefed-up scripts. They’re generally designed to help employees work smarter and faster rather than replace them outright. Automation Anywhere’s offering, IQ Bot, is a bit more capable, with the ability to ingest and assimilate both semi-structured and unstructured data such as invoices, contracts, purchase orders, emails, and images in addition to the standard spreadsheets and CSV files.

“Invoices have no standard template, they have no standard format,” Kholi noted. “And there are as many invoices as a number of vendors out there.” So instead of forcing a human worker to parse through that information, IQ Bot will autonomously figure out what actions need to be taken and relay that information to the relevant subsystems, without the direct supervision of a human. “Everything can be done as if a person was working on it without the person having to do this kind of work,” Kholi said, though he did point out that a human in the loop is still required for compliance matters, much like Amelia and change of address issues.

“I think anyone can gain from this,” Kholi argued. “It is more about a mindset that ‘I will let computers do what they do best, while I do what I do best.’ I am convinced the nature of work is going to change. I know that, I mean, it’s the effect of computing, right?” Just as computers themselves overturned the existing office hierarchies and business models 20 years ago, “just like that, intelligent automation is going to change work,” he said.

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The best electric bikes, scooters and skateboards to use at school

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Boosted Mini S

boosted

Boosted boards have been on the wish lists of many a college student over the years, but with the launch of the Mini S, last year the dream became a lot more realistic. The $749 list price isn’t chump change, but it’s comparable to a mid-range mountain bike. For that sum, you get a retro Dogtown-style look with a very maneuverable 29.5-inch length and 18-mph top speed. You’ll get to a full charge in just an hour and can go around seven miles on the standard battery. The drawback is that range, which is half that of other Boosted boards, along with the heavy 15-pound weight and lack of comfort compared to longer boards.
— Steve Dent, Contributing Editor

Buy Boosted Mini S- $749

Brompton Electric

brompton

For the medium-distance ride to school, Brompton’s Electric offers a good balance of range, weight and fun. The bike only assists your ride up to 15MPH, over a distance of 25 to 50 miles per charge, but in return you’ll have less weight to haul up those daunting college stairs (36 pounds with the battery). The smaller 16-inch wheels and slim frame mean the Brompton will stow under your desk more easily than some bigger bikes, so you might not have to worry about leaving your $3,500 investment chained to communal bike racks. Despite only having two gears (you can upgrade to six for an extra $250), Brompton claims it can tackle “most” San Francisco hills — meaning your local mound should be no challenge.

While there’s no storage rack on the back, Brompton has a solution: The battery is housed in a bag that straps to the front. The default option has space for smaller items (phone, notebooks and snacks), or you can upgrade to one of the larger bags, including a detachable City Bag option ($200) that’ll fit a 15-inch laptop. This means you can charge the battery at any outlet while your bike is stowed; plus there’s even a USB port for charging your gadgets as you ride: vital if you dozed off while studying the night before and forgot to top up your phone.

— James Trew, Managing Editor

Buy Brompton Electric – $3,499+

Miles Board

miles

When it comes to electric skateboards, bigger isn’t always better. Sure, that long board might be sweet for carving up the streets, but it’s a handful to carry and even the lowest curb can stop you in your tracks. Enter the Miles Dual from Miles Boards. This diminutive deck was pretty much designed with the college campus in mind. At 12.5 pounds it’s lighter than Boosted’s Mini S and faster too (22MPH over Boosted’s 18). It also offers a range of up to 18 miles (Boosted lists the S at 7) — all for about the same price ($769). If you don’t need as much juice, the lighter, cheaper Single model ($499) will still last for up to 12 miles and reach 18MPH.

Another perk with Miles is the swappable battery, which means you can keep riding without stopping to charge, and the small kicktail makes popping up curbs a cinch. Last, you can choose from a range of different grip tape designs and graphics to make the Miles fit your style. — J.T.

Buy Miles Board on Amazon – $769

Segway Ninebot KickScooter

ninebot scooter

Booting around campus on a scooter gives you a leg up on fellow students, but if you want it to last until you graduate, you’ll need something serious. Ninebot’s Segway ES4 Kick Scooter should fit the bill, as it marries durability, comfort, high performance and advanced technology. You can hit speeds of 19 mph and travel up to 28 miles, and a second battery guarantees that you’re always ready for the next class. It’s comfortable, thanks to the 30-pound weight, easy to fold up and packs advanced tech like cruise control, an LED display and Bluetooth capability. The drawbacks are the extra weight and $769 price, but if that’s too much, you can sacrifice some range and speed and go for Ninebot’s ES2 or ES1 for $589 and $489, respectively. — S.D.

Tern Vektron D8

vektron d8

Riding a bike is fun, but your quads might not always agree. If you buy an electric one, however, you’ll get the freedom and exercise of a bike with motorized support when you need it. The Vektron D8 from Tern is ideal for those who live a few miles from campus and don’t want their ride to dominate the school day. With eight gears and five levels of assistance, even big hills become easily surmountable. Meanwhile, the low center of gravity (thanks to the motor placement) makes it a good option around town, too.

One charge should be good for between 25 and 55 miles of assisted riding, but once you get above 20MPH, you’ll be picking up the slack (still, that’s pretty fast). The hydraulic disc brakes will safely slow you down, and as the Vektron is foldable, you can tuck it under your desk or easily take it on public transport if you need to. We also like the Vektron’s rear storage rack, which is handy for lugging all of your gear to class. — J.T.

Buy Vektron D8 on Amazon – $2,199



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There’s now a Razer electric SUV, of course

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For the gamer who has everything, we present to you the NIO ES6 Night Explorer Limited Edition, the unholy offspring of a Razer gaming laptop and an electric SUV. It has some of the features you’d expect from a Razer product — like neon green branding and Chroma LED lighting — but, you know, in car form. It’ll also pack in Hue lighting and THX Spatial Audio, so you can truly flaunt your role as a geeky road warrior. Don’t get too excited though, as NIO is only going to make 88 of these custom SUVs. And, of course, they’ll only be available in China for around $67,419 (467,800 yuan).

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